Electronic locks
An electronic lock is a self-contained electromechanical unit that combines a credential reader and a locking mechanism in a single device. The user authenticates at the lock itself — via PIN, RFID card/fob, fingerprint, or a combination — and the lock's internal motor or solenoid engages or releases the bolt without any external controller.
Electronic locks are often the quickest path to keyless entry on an existing door: they mount where a conventional lock and cylinder would sit, they carry their own power source (batteries on standalone models, or a 12 V DC cable on wired models), and they need no separate access control panel.
Common form factors
- Handle / lever locks — replace a standard door lever set; include the credential reader in the handle or escutcheon. Common in offices and hotel rooms.
- Mortise locks — drop into a standard mortise pocket in the door; suited to doors already prepared for mortise hardware.
- Padlocks — portable electronic padlocks for lockers, sheds, gates and cabinets where a permanently installed lock is impractical.
- Cylinder replacements — electronic cylinder that fits into an existing lock body, retaining the original handle while replacing only the cylinder.
Authentication methods
| Method | Notes |
|---|---|
| PIN | Keypad on the lock face; no card needed |
| RFID card / fob | 125 kHz or 13.56 MHz depending on model |
| Fingerprint | Built-in biometric reader on select models |
| Multi-factor (PIN + card) | Higher-security mode requiring both credentials |
| Mechanical key override | Emergency backup on almost all models |
Battery vs. wired power
Battery-powered standalone locks are the easiest to install — no cable, no power supply, no wall penetration. Most models use 4× AA alkaline cells and give 6–12 months of normal use before the batteries need replacing. They include a low-battery warning (audible alert and/or LED) and an emergency external 9 V contact so the door can be opened with a fresh battery pressed against the contacts even if the internal batteries are completely flat.
Wired locks run on 12 V DC from a dedicated power supply and are suitable for high-traffic installations where frequent battery replacement is impractical, or for installations that need to integrate with an access control panel, alarm system, or time-attendance recorder.
Integration with access control systems
Standalone electronic locks manage their own user database and access log internally. For more complex needs:
- Some models connect to a PC via USB or RS485 for bulk user provisioning and audit log export.
- Wired models with a Wiegand output can be controlled by an external access control panel, just like a proximity reader.
- Many wired models also provide relay (NO/NC) inputs that allow them to be triggered by an external controller, door sensor, or alarm system.
Electronic locks FAQ
What is the difference between an electronic lock and an electric strike?
An electronic lock replaces (or is built into) the locking mechanism on the door leaf itself — it contains both the credential reader and the bolt in one unit. An electric strike replaces the strike plate in the door frame and works with the existing door latch or deadbolt; the original lock body and handle stay on the door. Electronic locks are a more integrated solution; electric strikes are easier to retrofit to existing doors without replacing the lock hardware.
Do I need an external power supply for an electronic lock?
That depends on the model. Battery-powered standalone locks carry their own power source — typically 4× AA alkaline batteries — and need no external wiring except a data cable if you connect them to a PC for management. Wired electronic locks require a dedicated 12 V DC power supply. For wired models, use a proper access control power supply (not a generic wall adapter) as these include short-circuit protection, tamper detection, and often a battery backup connection for power-loss situations.
What happens if the batteries run out on a standalone electronic lock?
Most HDWR standalone electronic locks provide a low-battery warning (typically a series of beeps or a red LED) when battery life drops to around 10–15%, giving you enough notice to replace the batteries. If the batteries are fully depleted before you act, use the emergency 9 V external contact on the front of the lock: press a fresh 9 V alkaline battery against the contacts and enter your PIN — the lock will open. Replace the internal AA batteries immediately after opening.
How many user codes or cards can an electronic lock store?
Capacity varies by model. Basic standalone locks store 20–100 user credentials (PINs and/or RFID cards). Mid-range models support 500–2000 users. Higher-end wired or network-connected models can store tens of thousands of credentials. If the number of users is likely to grow, choose a model with more capacity than you currently need — adding capacity later is generally not possible without upgrading the lock hardware.
Can I use RFID cards from another supplier with an HDWR electronic lock?
Yes, provided the card frequency matches the lock. HDWR electronic locks that support 125 kHz will read any standard EM4100 or Unique card or fob from any manufacturer. Models that support 13.56 MHz will read standard MIFARE Classic and ISO 14443 cards. The lock stores the card's unique ID number — it does not care which manufacturer produced the card, as long as the frequency and protocol match. Avoid non-standard or proprietary encrypted cards unless the lock documentation explicitly lists support for them.
Is an electronic lock secure enough for an office or storage room?
Electronic locks in the HDWR range provide security comparable to a quality conventional lock of the same price class — the electromechanical bolt is as strong as the housing allows, and the keypad or RFID reader adds credential-based access control. For most office and storage-room applications they are more than adequate. For very high-security requirements (server rooms, vaults, areas subject to break-in attempts), look for models with anti-tamper alarms, reinforced bolt housings, and an anti-drilling rating. Physical door and frame strength matters as much as the lock itself — a strong electronic lock in a weak frame or hollow door is still a weak point.
How do I reset an electronic lock to factory defaults?
The reset procedure varies by model and is documented in the product manual. The general principle is: with the door open, access the programming mode using the administrator (master) code, then select the reset-to-factory option. On some models a physical reset button inside the lock body (accessible only with the door open) performs a full reset. After a factory reset all user codes and enrolled cards are erased; only the default administrator code is active. Always change the default administrator code immediately after a reset.
Can the electronic lock connect to a time-attendance or alarm system?
Wired HDWR electronic locks with a relay output or Wiegand interface can be integrated with other systems. A relay output lets an external controller (alarm panel, time recorder) trigger the lock open. A Wiegand output allows the lock to report every authentication event — card number or PIN entered — to an access control panel or time-attendance recorder that listens on the Wiegand bus. Battery-powered standalone locks typically do not have these integration options; they manage access locally and log events to internal memory only.